Across the Universe

Ler Devagar is ranked number three in the list of the 5 best bookstores in the city according to The Hidden Secrets of Lisbon. The store has set up shop in the ” hipster-chic LX Factory project, occupying a former warehouse lined with bookshelves”. For those from Toronto, picture the Distillery District; or think ofContinue reading “Across the Universe”

Going Home

Centrale Begraafplaats West, Hoflan 150, Tilburg. Section 16,Grave number 10402483. Father Kees de Cock was buried there January 8, 1981. You will not find a stone; it was removed in 2002. If you visit the website and type his name in the search field, no results will appear. I wrote to an address listed inContinue reading “Going Home”

Beatitudes

10:55 am. Time to lock up and head over to the chapel, a quick jaunt across the small parking lot between the archives and the Herbert House residence. I am back in Freshfield, England almost two years to the day, combing through the files of the Mill Hill Missionary Society which may hold more informationContinue reading “Beatitudes”

Welcome to the End of the World

Finesterre. It was the end of the world as they knew it. Back then. Predating Christianity, people journeyed to  Cape Fisterra on the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death) where they believed the sun died, bringing the worlds of the living and the dead closer together. Finisterre is now the traditional end of the CaminoContinue reading “Welcome to the End of the World”

Santiago de Compostela

“We made it.” My voice cracking, my eyes welling up, Olga crying in joy. “We made it.” An emotional moment that overwhelmed us. We asked a fellow pilgrim to snap a photo in that instant to capture the end of our journey so we could send it out immediately to our family. Then Olga andContinue reading “Santiago de Compostela”

Friol to Melide to Salceda

The Camino has changed. The increased number of people have made the alone times less frequent, reduced even further after Melide when the Camino Frances melds with the Camino Primitivo. The earlier collective comraderie has narrowed to one’s immediate circle. The pilgrimmage is beginning to feel more like a long tourist walk through the countryside.Continue reading “Friol to Melide to Salceda”

Lugo to Friol

Lugo is 100 km from Santiago de Compostela which makes the city a popular starting place for people desiring the certificate at the end of their Camino. The trek today, as a result, was considerably busier with those just beginning and those continuing. Lugo is a travel destination in its own right. Olga and IContinue reading “Lugo to Friol”

Tineo

The planning for the Camino Primitivo was intended to be fluid. September is still considered the high season and the Facebook posts pointed to challenges  in finding space in the albergues. We were not inclined to sleep in these dormitory accommodations, preferring rather to find private rooms, hotel or otherwise. Believing we could manage theContinue reading “Tineo”

Salas to Tineo

When the children were young, our family enjoyed playing a board game entitled, The Tortoise, the Fox, and the Hare. The premise was simple: a race to the finish line, first one crossing wins. There was a pair of six sided dice for each contestant except the numbers were different. The Hare’s dice resembled aContinue reading “Salas to Tineo”

Oviedo to Grado to Salas

The guide book estimated 7 – 9 hours. It took us 10.5. We left our bachelor apartment in Oviedo at 8:20 am We finally arrived in Grado at 6:50 pm. The authors also declare the distance to be 25.5 km. My Pacer app measured 29.1 km; and counted 49,980 steps. New league record. For OlgaContinue reading “Oviedo to Grado to Salas”