Walk the Way

We got our first taste of the Camino in Italy.

Olga and I were making another pilgrimage, to the medieval town of Assisi as part of our travels this past May. The three city trip was a return to Italy, the first ten days on our own, Assisi then Florence; the last third in Venice to meet up with Bohdan and Danya. Home of the St. Francis Basilica, Assisi is the destination of the Italian version of the Camino, La Via di Francesco, with paths traversing the Umbria countryside; the southern portion starts in Rome, the northern side can begin in Florence although officially in the town of La Verna. The last stage of the southern route winds through the town of Spello, fourteen kilometres away from Assisi. We had scouted the route as an opportunity to hike in one direction and return by taxi. Separately, we had intended as well to visit Eremo delle Carceri, a Franciscan hermitage, 4.5 km from Assisi. Both walks would be weather permitting.

The forecast called for rain in the final three days of our stay; so, in order to ease into hiking, the plan would be to begin with a walk to the hermitage. We were unfazed by the distance, the kilometres one way something we would do on a morning constitutional with our dog, Odin. We discussed our goals with the tourism office in town where we were given directions to find the beginning of the trail. Exiting the town’s southern gate, we turned immediately left onto a dirt path that began as a continuous, gradual incline until a sharp turn onto an increasingly rocky road and a steeper climb.

Our pace  slowed into deliberate movements, leaning forward with each step, lifting one leg in front of the other, huffing after several, stopping to catch our breath after an extended exertion. A group of teenagers engulfed us, chatting and laughing and complaining, passing us, eventually disappearing around the next curve.  Later we encountered an Australian couple, our generation, sweating, breathing heavy, resting, on their way down, assuring us we were almost at the top and encouraging us to keep going – the destination was worth the effort. After a final incline, we popped onto a paved road to complete the last half kilometre to the hermitage.

The downward walk was equally difficult, navigating the large, loose stone and dirt crevices, carefully stepping to maintain balance, avoiding surges forward, scoping the most secure passage. A gaggle of 20ish hikers decked out in outdoor apparel and toting walking sticks raced past us at one point. An hour and a half up; an hour and a half down.

We realized the walk to Spello would entail returning to the same path past the hermitage with a further climb to the top of Mount Suboto. That idea was abandoned.

Would this short stretch define our expieriences of the Primitivo Camino? My reading suggests we can anticipate encountering  this terrain in numerous spots particularly in the early stages. I have studied the maps and I still do not have any concept of the inclines, if what we walked was more or less difficult than the roads in Spain. We climbed with no water and no sustenance, both of which would have helped. The Primitivo is described as the most rugged as compared to the French way. How does it compare to the St. Francis Way? In some respects, the path appears to be a miniature version of the Camino: up hill and down, along a wooded path of dirt and rocks, plus some distance of paved road, through towns and villages, all surrounded by gorgeous scenery overlooking a lush valley.  The Assisi experience engendered more questions than it answered.  That was 9 kilometers; how would we fare for 320 km? It illustrated how little we were prepared.

Our path forward became clear. Physically, we would need to focus on building leg strength and stamina. Longer walks over undulating terrain would be good training to achieve both objectives. Proper shoes would be of critical importance. Appropriate clothing would help endure the heat or cold or whatever the weather brings.

The first lesson meant we needed to exercise regularly, the second meant we needed to acquire proper gear. More walking and more shopping. We took the path of least resistance – and went shopping.

Canadian Tire advertised a sale on foldable walking sticks although slightly too tall for Olga. No problem, she found one on line for even less. We stopped by Mark’s Work Wearhouse with an in store discount on all Columbia attire. Two cargo pants, two waterproof jackets, two light, collared shirts, and a pair of hiking boots for me were rung into the till. Next stop, Mountain Equipment Coop, the mecca of outdoor equipment. We returned Olga’s hiking boots which were not quite right, tried on some more, and fitted a backpack for each of us. Our experienced salesperson sold us on additional gear like waterproof compartmental bags to sort and separate our supplies. Toss in several pairs of Merino wool socks and my Visa card was heating up. Two weeks later at UniQlo we discover the quick dry clothing for the wet days and the compact puff jackets for the cool nights. Constant review and re-evaluation, some return visits to all these stores and our packing list now shows more checks than blanks while our credit card bills are rising as high as the hills we will climb.

A consistent exercise and walking regiment has proven more of a challenge. Olga has mastered the most beneficial movements learned in her Yoga teacher training certifications and from her ongoing research into helpful body movements. She has carved out a routine to loosen my tight hips and stretch out my hamstrings except my lack of discipline has meant spotty times of practice. On the other hand, I walk Odin twice a day, exceeding 10,000 steps, or approximately 8 km. Olga has typically only participated in the morning outing which we have gradually increased each week. Inclement weather heat waves, and visits to the cottage have curtailed our walking efforts such that we have reached 21 km only once, the  average daily distance needed to complete the Camino in our self imposed time.

I have no concern with Olga physically completing the Camino. She is in tune with her body and what it needs. Me on the other hand….

Confidence. Belief. Faith.

We have been working on that aspect of our preparation for some time.