Oviedo to Grado to Salas

The guide book estimated 7 – 9 hours. It took us 10.5. We left our bachelor apartment in Oviedo at 8:20 am We finally arrived in Grado at 6:50 pm.

The authors also declare the distance to be 25.5 km. My Pacer app measured 29.1 km; and counted 49,980 steps. New league record. For Olga and myself, by far.

We started well, meeting several fellow peregrinos, engaging in brief chats, pleasantries. The first was a couple from France on their 5th Camino asking why we picked the Primitivo, the most difficult, as our first. Then two British women, in our age bracket, on their first as well. We asked them the same question. After we encountered a couple from South Africa, at least 10 years or junior, also new. Later we were passed by three young women, 20 somethings, each carrying enormous backpacks, larger than mine. Ming, from China, tiny, was carrying equipment larger than herself. Then there was Michael, 50s range, from Canada, Creemore, Ontario to be exact, another veteran asking why the Primitivo as our first. He wished us well.

What did all these people have in common? They all passed us, kept walking and we never saw them again after the halfway point. (The British women stopped at that juncture.) We passed no one. Like the car driving in the slow lane, under the speed limit.

We were spent when we reached Escamplero, 15.8 km into the first leg. A rest, copious amounts of water, a meal (albeit not very good) and we thought, let’s finish. We can do it. And we did. Barely.

The scenery was gorgeous in parts; the stretches through forests, beside streams, winding past quaint collection of houses,  all lovely. They sustained us until we reached the sign for Grado, 3 km, over the bridge and turn right. It was the longest, hardest three kilometres of our lives.

By then we had been walking for nine hours. Our feet were sore. Our calves ached. Both of us hunched from the weight of our backpacks. The road into Grado was inhospitable; pavement, concrete, weeds, abandoned stores, tattered businesses, cars racing past. Our steps shortened by half, resting more frequently, Google Maps always seeming to say we were 20 minutes away.  Finally, Gusado greeted us on the street to present the keys and the apartment.

A shower, unpacking our material across the floor, gorging on the stored cheese sandwich and sausage, medicating on Tylenol, rubbing various parts with Voltran and then collapsing into bed. How will we manage tomorrow? Don’t know. Can’t think. We did not set an alarm, letting our bodies tell us when to wake. We will figure it out in the morning.

The light of a new day brought clarity. The guide book warns the reader to be prepared for a 350m climb out of Grado. “Take it easy and enjoy the wonderful views.” Should we delay? The room in Salas is already paid, as well as the third leg in Tineo, with zero refund for canceling. Besides where would we camp out in Grado. Not really an option. Our current apartment is not available. Yet we cannot continue as before. The solution? Send the biggest bag, jammed to its fullest, by taxi to our next destination, an option we read about on Facebook. Gusado, who does not speak a word of English, arranged it. I would carry Olga’s pack, smaller, lighter, with only the day time essentials.  Problem solved. We hope.

It was a late start, 9:40 am. A gorgeous morning, quiet even for a Saturday, expecting sun, high of 30⁰ C. We felt better, the rest healed our soreness, (some bandages around ankles and potential blisters helped), the plan making us feel optimistic. Izzy from England passed us after a brief exchange; Michael from Creemore passed us again having already put in 10 km that morning; the guy sleeping on the bench at the beginning passed us without a word. We carried on in our slow lane. We walked nearly the entire leg of Grado to Salas by ourselves. Again.

The views were as gorgeous as advertised. We spent more time off the roads, traversing through forests along smooth and rocky trails (one steep and treacherous). We stopped to take pictures, embraced the ambience, soaked in the atmosphere. The air was as fresh as we felt for three quarters of this section. We were tiring again by the end, yet not exhausted as the day before.

The guide book predicted the 22.7 km walk from Grado to Salas would take 6.5 – 8.5 hours. We arrived in 9 hrs, clocking in at 25.6 km and 36,042 steps. And felt better overall. A good day.

We are encouraged by the success of today and await tomorrow in anticipation.

Buen Camino.