Camino Primitivo

There is no turning back now, the tickets have been purchased.

AC824, seats 26A and 26C, September 2, Toronto to Madrid. A short subway jaunt the next morning to Madrid Chamartin in time to catch the 11;23 train for a 3.5 hour ride to Oviedo where our pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela begins.

In truth, Olga and I have been thinking about this venture for at least two years only committing ourselves last October to a Fall 2025 attempt of the Camino without immediately identifying the specific route or the precise dates. We are not getting any younger and further delay would increase the odds of not reaching our goal; not so much a bucket list check mark as a calling to follow the spiritual path to the mortal remains of St. James purportedly to have been buried in the cathedral on the Iberian peninsula. We spoke with friends and relatives of our intentions when asked about future travel plans, all the while searching the internet for more details on the possible routes and the necessary preparations.

The most famous path, made all the more popular with the release of the 2010 movie, The Way, starring Martin Sheen, is known as the French Way, beginning in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, through the Pyrenees, spanning 800 kilometres across France and Spain. Another path traverses the northern coast of Spain; a third begins in Porto, Portugal, following the ocean shoreline; a fourth, the least busiest, the most rugged, and by many accounts the most beautiful, is the Camino Primitivo or the “Original Way”, the oldest official Camino route. The typical starting point is Oviedo, the capital of Asturia, 320 kilometres away from Santiago, a seemingly doable distance for an expected two week trip. The seclusion and length appealed to our sensibilities so Olga and I began searching You Tube for videos to enhance our understanding of what to expect. We followed the journey of one young couple, marvelling at the scenery, awestruck by the views, shuddering at the daily mileage, laughing at their experiences. Having walked each of the four most common Camino routes, they declared the Primitivo to be their favourite. We were convinced.

The first decision complete, Olga and I began our exploration into all things Camino Primitivo. I ordered a village-to-village map guide chock full of information about distances, elevations, road conditions, amenities, services and history. I read the 64 page booklet in detail, imagining the trek, scoping the accommodations, contemplating the daily experiences. The packing list began the consideration of equipment, what we currently owned, what would need to be purchased.

Olga discovered a Facebook page specific to the Camino Primitivo, populated by previous, current and expected pilgrims, providing advice, displaying accomplishments and asking questions. How long is needed for the full distance? What can a person expect for weather? Any recommendations of shoes, backpacks, sleeping gear? How would a senior couple fair given the conditions? There were several postings daily in the fall, helping us to better understand the route and our needs. Still, by Christmas, the only concrete acquisition was a head lamp, suggested gear for those early morning starts, something I requested as a gift from my secret Santa.

We would need to average 25 kilometres a day for fourteen days if the intent was to follow the stages as set out in the guide. Practicing to walk that distance would need to be delayed until later given the winter snowfall in Toronto, although walking Odin provides a foundation. The time was drawing nearer, the trip still a plan, the preparations still in infancy.

In the spring, Rachel and Zachary announced their wedding for October 4, clarifying our next decision. We would schedule the pilgrimage in September, avoiding the heat and crowds of summer, still on the tail end of high season, before the inevitability of regular rain. We remained unclear on the number of days needed so hesitated to pin down anything more specific. The Facebook page picked up steam again, spouting a raft of advice – give yourself a day to recover from jet lag; it is not a race, enjoy the environment; allow for a break once in a while to recover; obtain an app to carve out your own pace; be sure to arrive in Santiago in time for the pilgrim mass at noon each day. Some self-doubt was also beginning to creep into our thoughts. How will our aging bodies react? What will happen if we have over estimated our own physical abilities?

Slowly we came to the conclusion that we need to schedule a three week trip, allowing for buffer days to account for needed extra time. On June 16, Olga and I sat down at the computer, pressed the buttons, and laid down a credit card to secure a return flight to Spain, September 2 to 24, 2025.

That decision opened the flood gates of even more decisions, including my own to mark this pilgrimage with posts about the preparation, the journey and the aftermath. For followers of Wonderings, I have created a separate category, Camino Primitivo, to house the story. I hope you will enjoy our journey.

Buen Camino